Anti-aging is a perennial leader in beauty claims, encompassing a wide range of ingredients with wildly diverse functions. As we noted in the September 2023 edition of this article seriesa, a 2023 paper published in the journal Cell identified 12 key contributors to aging, providing a roadmap for beauty brands seeking to hack the aging process.
Decoding the Skin's Longevity
NAD+'s role in various cellular processes has been long known, leading to its use in anti-aging supplements. However, NAD+ features poor molecular stability in cosmetics formulations, which prevents its uptake into skin cells. As a result, it has not been applied in topical cosmetics.Mibelle Biochemistry
Mibelle Biochemistry is the latest ingredient innovator to step up to the challenge. Its new RejuveNAD technology reportedly naturally stimulates the endogenous regeneration of NAD+ by activating the enzyme NAMPT, thereby making the skin appear as much as eight years younger.
As detailed in the journal Natureb, “NAD+ can directly and indirectly influence many key cellular functions, including metabolic pathways, DNA repair, chromatin remodeling, cellular senescence and immune cell function. These cellular processes and functions are critical for maintaining tissue and metabolic homeostasis and for healthy aging.”
By boosting NAD+, called the skin’s “longevity molecule,” RejuveNAD is able to optimize cellular processes to simultaneously address “at least” five of the 12 hallmarks of agingc, including mitochondrial dysfunction, cellular senescence, loss of proteostasis, epigenetic alteration and genomic instability.
By energizing mitochondria and promoting DNA repair, RejuveNAD is able to make the skin appear eight years younger within 42 days, per clinical studies cited by Mibelle Biochemistry.
NAD+'s role in various cellular processes has been long known, leading to its use in anti-aging supplements. However, NAD+ features poor molecular stability in cosmetics formulations, which prevents its uptake into skin cells. As a result, it has not been applied in topical cosmetics.
RejuveNAD, which is sourced from sunflower sprouts sustainably cultivated indoors, gets around this issue by stimulating NAD+ levels in the skin itself.
This marks just one innovation in the space. Here, we round up some of the latest technologies approaching anti-aging from several angles.
Collagen-binding Peptide Coming in 2025
BASF has made an equity investment in Utah-based startup 3Helix and will exclusively commercialize its collagen-hybridizing peptide (CHP) technology in the personal care market, beginning in 2025. BASF will also join 3Helix's board.
3Helix’s CHP technology “is based on short, single-stranded collagen-like peptides that have the unique ability to bind to damaged and denatured collagen, enabling extraordinary anti-aging claims.” A 2017 reportd noted that CHP “specifically hybridizes to ... degraded, unfolded collagen chains” and "can be used to image degraded collagen and inform tissue remodeling activity in various tissues." The study specifically cites skin aging as a likely target for application.
Botanical Pro-aging
Natralipid’s Advanced Omega Complex—distributed in some markets by Integrity Ingredients—comprises Buglossoides arvensis (Ahiflower) seed oil and Limnanthes alba (meadowfoam) seed oil for anti-aging applications. The complex is rich in omega 3 and 6 fatty acids, as well as C20 and C22 fatty acids. Its stearidonic acid (SDA) and gamma linolenic acid (GLA) content, meanwhile, reportedly offers strong anti-inflammatory activity. Per the companies, the complex can significantly reduce skin wrinkle depth within 28 days; in that same period, the technology reportedly boosts mouth and eye area moisture by as much as 40%. Recommended use level: 5%.
The companies also offer standalone Buglossoides arvensis (Ahiflower) seed oil, which contributes the SDA and GLA content of the complex (the botanical reportedly comprises about 85% omega 3, 6 and 9 content). The oil can be leveraged as a topical or ingestible ingredient for microbiome support (topically) or anti-inflammatory effects. The oil also reportedly demonstrates collagen synthesis support.
5 Molecular Weights of HA
Integrity Ingredients’ IntegriMoist hyaluronic acid series comprises high to very low molecular weight variants, as well as a multi-weight complex and others. The various weights lock in water, form moisturizing films on skin, penetrate the stratum corneum, boost skin elasticity, combat premature aging (appearance of wrinkles) and more. They can be applied to the skin and hair and can be used in combination to deliver instant softness and longer-lasting effects simultaneously.
Stabilized Retinol
Amcol Health & Beauty Solutions’ (HBS) RetinEZ Retinol Delivery System (INCI: cellulose, retinol, ascorbic acid, polysorbate 20 and tocopherol) comprises a natural Microsponge cellulose-based delivery system, providing anti-aging activity with reduced irritation. Free of BHA, BHT and microplastics, the cellulose microparticle and stabilization package allows formulations to be manufactured in conventional lotion production equipment without the need for inert atmosphere blankets or yellow lighting to defend from oxidation/degradation.
The material maintains more than 90% of its retinol over the duration of testing in creams housed in barrier packaging and placed in a stability chamber for 3 months at 40 degrees Celsius. Potential applications include anti-aging products, daily moisturizers and lotions, facial and body masks, hand and body lotions, and cellulite treatments.
A Natural Lift
Active Concepts’ AC ExoVitalize exosome active technology stimulates oxidative phosphorylation and glycolysis to provide the skin with a lifted appearance. The technology comprises grapefruit and watermelon extracts that address the skin on a cellular level.
Bioactive Collagen Stimulation
Integrity Ingredients’ IntegriButter Super Fruit Complexe comprises cupuacu butter and fruit oils from apple, cranberry, blackberry, pomegranate, sea buckthorn, cherry kernel and kiwi seed. Rich in phytonutrients, vitamins, minerals, omegas and essential fatty acids, the complex reportedly helps restore skin barrier function, calms inflammation, and conditions hair and skin. It also provides antioxidant protection and helps to increase collagen synthesis and promote skin renewal, per Integrity Ingredients. The technology is recommended for product formats such as lotions and creams, hair conditioners, body and lip balms, bar soaps, and sun care.
Artichoke-based Inflammation Suppressor
Ichimaru Pharcos’ Biobenefity conc. (INCI: butylene glyco (and) water (aqua) (and) Cynara scolymus (artichoke) leaf extract) is an anti-aging concentrate that suppresses the activation of NF-κB, a regulator of immune functions and mediator of inflammatory responses. The technology’s elevated levels of the active cynaropicrin—known for its anti-photoaging/antiinflammatory benefits—can reportedly prevent pigmentation, photoaging and noticeable pores. The material is aligned with sustainable development goals and represents a concentrated variant of the company’s Biobenefity technology. The concentrated format reduces CO2 emissions from transportation, container waste and storage space, according to the manufacturer, and makes it an easy product to consider for higher dosage in formulations.
Naturally Harmonizing the Complexion
Active Concepts’ AC ExoTone (INCI: water (aqua) (and) Pyrus malus (apple) fruit extract (and) phospholipids) taps exosomal technology that improves cell-to-cell communication and boosts the delivery of actives. AC ExoTone diminishes the appearance of hyperpigmentation, enhances cellular renewal and evens out skin tone, according to the supplier. It also features upcycled apples sourced from North Carolina’s Lincoln County Apple Festival, which is held near Active Concepts’ headquarters.
Sensitive Skin Innovation
Symrise's new organic-oat-derived SymCalmin Avena is designed to soothe sensitive skin from symptoms such as itching or feelings of tension and stinging.iso100production at Adobe Stock
Sensitive skin is another key concern that has been on the rise for decades. In response, ingredient suppliers have stepped up to provide increasingly gentle care.
Histamine Modulation
Symrise's new organic-oat-derived SymCalmin Avena (INCI: maltodextrin (and) Avena sativa (oat) kernel extract) is designed to soothe sensitive skin from symptoms such as itching or feelings of tension and stinging.
The organic product comprises a high level of avenanthramides (200-250 ppm), per the company. A paperf from the University of Torino in Italy reported in 2018 that, "A number of studies demonstrate that these natural products [avenanthramides] have strong antioxidant activity both in vitro and in vivo, as well as anti-inflammatory, anti-itching, anti-irritant, antiatherogenic, and antiproliferative activities, which may prevent or limit cellular oxidative dysfunctions and the development of oxidative stress-related diseases, such as neurodegenerative and cardiovascular diseases, and provide additional protection against skin irritation, aging, CHD, and cancer."
Derived from German-grown oats processed regionally, SymCalmin Avena—in addition to soothing the skin of itching, tightness or redness—helps to regulate its moisture balance to prevent dryness.
The technology works by targeting the mast cell receptor MRGPRX2, which is associated with itchy and irritated skin due to its interaction between nerves and the immune system. By reducing the release of histamine, SymCalmin Avena is reportedly able to alleviate itching, while visibly reducing the appearance of skin redness after a period of one to two weeks.
SymCalmin Avena’s avenanthramide content is extracted from organic oats via the company’s SymTrap technology, which leverages natural solvents. While its efficacy is on par with conventional alternatives already on the market, the technology is reportedly unique in its COSMOS organic certification. The neutral-colored technology is recommended for a wide range of applications, including skin and body care and hygiene products.
Slow-release Glycolic Acid
CrossChem’s GlySmart, available from Coast Southwest, is an amphoteric complex consisting of 64% glycolic acid and 10% arginine. The dipole bond of the complex controls the release of glycolic acid onto the surface of the skin, minimizing irritation, per the companies. Studies have reportedly shown that the arginine-glycolic acid formulation is similarly effective to glycolic acid alone in spurring skin replenishment through exfoliation.
Wound Healing & Restoration
AC ExoRestore, a botanical exosome technology from Active Concepts,: provides accelerated wound healing, particularly to sensitive skin, which can be injured following microtears from exfoliation, acne breakouts or exposure to environmental stressors. The technology leverages bitter melon extract, reported to have prebiotic properties useful in healing the skin.
Gentle Bakuchiol- and Retinoid-like Effects
New test results reportedly show that Lubrizol’s Stevisse imparts retinoid- and bakuchiol-like benefits without skin irritation.
In vitro tests showed that the ingredient technology can engender an antioxidant response that is greater than stevia extracts obtained through conventional extraction technologies.
Stevisse is produced using Phenobio, a subcritical water technology. As previously reported, the extraction technology is an alternative to conventional solvents and extracts a broader range of phytoactives by using only water as the extraction solvent.
This is all reportedly completed with a short extraction time with no thermal degradation to provide pure, sustainable and eco-conscious extracts.
Materials produced via the Phenobio system can be certified Ecocert-compliant and meet COSMOS environmental standards.
According to Lubrizol, the latest testing showed that Stevisse can minimize skin inflammation by 57.8% compared to retinoic acid, in a similar way to bakuchiol.
Furthermore, the ingredient reportedly improved the skin tone homogeneity and minimized dark spots after 28 days of treatment.
Lubrizol previously reported anti-wrinkle results for the technology (reduced wrinkle area by up to 87.3% and length by up to 85.3%).
The supplier is using blockchain technology to track Stevisse's production from the cultivation of the raw material (stevia leaves) to the final product delivered to the customer. This reportedly prevents modifications and ensures a fully transparent traceability process from field to bottle.
Soothing Multifunctional
Solabia Group’s SolaSmart Fuse comprises 2.5 mm white pearlescent pearls obtained via a macro-inclusion technology that associates the marine polysaccharides alginate and agar-agar, enriched by Fucogel Powder, the latter of which offers soothing, moisturizing, anti-aging, restructuring and texture properties in skin care, hair care, body care and hygiene products.
Emulsifier for Emulsifier-free Products
Berg + Schmidt GmbH’s vegan BergaMuls ET2 (INCI: cellulose (and) Cyamopsis tetragonoloba gum (and) beta glucan) is a plant-based o/w emulsifier, thickening agent and co-stabilizer upcycled from oat, wood and guar gum. The material reportedly supports “outstanding” skin feel, per the company, without exhibiting surface activity or negatively impacting the skin barrier. It is therefore recommended for emulsifier-free concepts. BergaMuls ET2 is recommended for use in light, translucent and refreshing cream-gels, as well as soothing lotions and compact creams.
Soothing Phytoactives
Integrity Ingredients’ IntegriButter Tropical PhytoActive Emollient Complexg features shea butter, bioactive compounds sourced from sea buckthorn fruit and seed and kakadu plum, along with the nuts from cacay, tamanu, babassu and coconut trees. These compounds are combined with cupuacu and murumuru butters, monoi flower extract and vitamin E. The complex is rich in omegas 3, 6, 7 and 9, vitamins, C, E and F, antioxidant ferulic acid, and hydrating gallic acid and ellagic acid. These and other bioactives work in concert to hydrate the skin and seal in moisture; neutralize free radicals; calm inflammation; soothe sensitive, irritated skin; and restore skin and hair elasticity. Applications include lotions and creams, bar soaps, hair conditioners, body and lip balms, and sun care. The complex’s shea butter reportedly contributes to the economic well-being of its West African producers.
Skin Flooding Technology
Crodarom’s Phytessence French Rose EC imparts an effect similar to the popular trend of skin flooding, which involves layering moisturizing materials to deeply hydrate, thereby strengthening the skin barrier. The ingredient is sourced from the Rosa gallica flower from a French supply chain and manufactured with a green and eco-designed process, per the company. The ingredient reportedly visually improves skin quality and demonstrates soothing and protective abilities.
Prebiotic Body Care
Arcaea has launched ScentArc, a prebiotic nutrient blend for deodorants that prevents the production of odor causing bacteria, including Corynebacterium sp. and Staphylococcus hominis, found in the axillary area. Pictured is a concept product comprising the technology.Arcaea
A 30-person panel applied the product (formulated into an unscented stick) once daily after a three-day wash-out period. Of the subjects, 87% said the ScentArc technology prevented bad smells from developing throughout the day and 100% said they found the product to be gentle and non-irritating.
The technology allows formulators to skip materials such as magnesium, aluminum and baking soda in formulations. At the same time, it is neutral enough not to compete with fragrance materials.
Furthermore, the technology can be applied in intimate care applications due to similarities to the underarm biome. In addition, variants of the prebiotic technology could potentially be produced to address the odor prevention needs of other body sites.
Optimizing Sun Care
BASF’s Tinomax CC features a homogeneous particle shape to improve the sensory perception of sun care featuring organic-soluble UV filters and those containing particles dispersed in the oil phase, as well as skin care products.deagreez at Adobe Stock
Repairing Sun Damage
LipoTrue’s Timlog (INCI: Nicotiana benthamiana sh-polypeptide-15 hexapeptide-40) can reportedly repair the skin’s collagen network after sun damage. The technology comprises a plant-based human TIMP-2 (tissue inhibitor of metalloproteinases) that inhibits MMP-2 (known for cleaving collagen type IV) and increases fibromodulin, which has an important role in organizing the extracellular matrix by binding to collagen, resulting in a delay of fibril formation and the formation of thinner fibers. The result is a repair of dermal solar scars/photoaged skin, which is typically high in MMP content. Timlog is therefore ideal for after-sun and holistic skin care formulations.
Clean Zinc Oxide Dispersion
Applechem’s S-Block DZ CocoDerm (INCI: zinc oxide (and) coco-caprylate/caprate (and) triethoxycaprylylsilane (and) polyhydroxystearic acid (and) polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate (and) lecithin) is designed for dermaceutical clean products to create stability for actives. The technology is ideal for water-in-silicone and oil-in-water emulsions and generally supports claims associated with clean beauty with SPF. In formulations, the ingredient provides a strong moisturizing after-feel with good slip during rub-in. S-Block DZ CocoDerm reportedly eases the blending of color pigments and is compliant with Clean at Sephora, Conscious Beauty at Ulta, Credo Clean, Target Clean and Grove Beauty’s guidelines.
Upcycled SPF & Antioxidant Booster
Lignovations’ LignoGuard (INCI: aqua, lignin, pentylene glycol) is a multifunctional antioxidant, SPF-boosting and stabilizing material upcycled from raw lignin sourced from a biorefinery that processes sawdust, woodchips and low-quality stem wood into high-value derivatives.J Maas/peopleimages.com at Adobe Stock
The ingredient reportedly improves the efficiency of organic and mineral UV filters by up to 55%, including formulations comprising materials such as zinc oxide, octocrylene, avobenzone, bisoctrizole and Tinosorb. The technology accomplishes its effects by enabling homogenous distribution of UV filters, bending/scattering UV light and increasing the path length of UV light. On-skin, LignoGuard’s colloidal particles cannot be seen or felt after application and enables formulations with no white cast.
LignoGuard’s antioxidant effects are reportedly due to its high phenolic hydroxyl content and large specific surface. It also improves product stability by radical scavenging, per Lignovations, and outperforms vitamins C and E in terms of reduction of oxidative stress in cells. Furthermore, LignoGuard prevents damage from radicals caused by photodegradation of UV filters and thereby increases long-term effectiveness of UV filters.
Marine-based Photoaging Defense
Solabia’s HelioPure Skin comprises a concentrated form of fucoxanthin (carotenoid) obtained by the extraction of the unicelluar microalgae Phaeodactylum tricornutum stabilized in organic jojoba oil (Simmondsia chinensis). The microalgae are grown in a controlled environment and exposed to natural sunlight by Algatech, a Solabia Group entity.
The technology reportedly photoprotects the skin through detoxification and provides optimal skin barrier function, thereby strengthening the stratum corneum and modulating the crosstalks between three cellular types—keratinocytes, melanocytes and fibroblasts—to prevent pigmentation disorders linked to UV-induced inflammation. It also helps maintain the 3D skin architecture by preserving the integrity of the extracellular matrix.
HelioPure Skin is therefore ideal for daily protective skin care, sun care and after-sun products, and anti-aging and antioxidant care.
Improving Sunscreen Filter Dispersion & Sensory Enhancement
Siltech’s Siltech CA Plus (INCI: dimethiconol/caprylylsilsesquioxane/silicate crosspolymer) is a hydrophobic Q-resin-modified silicone that disperses pigments and sunscreen filters. Ideal for makeup and sunscreen applications, Siltech CA Plus provides water repellency and emolliency to formulations while also providing a smooth sensorial effect. The technology is featured in Siltech’s latest concept formulations, including the Mineral Manifestation, a 40-plus in-vitro SPF sunscreen formula that features an all-mineral UV filter package.
Enhanced UV Protection & Sensory Effects
BASF’s Tinomax CC features a homogeneous particle shape to improve the sensory perception of sun care featuring organic-soluble UV filters and those containing particles dispersed in the oil phase, as well as skin care products. The off-white powder can reportedly enhance UV protection with SPF and UVA via light birefringence (double refraction of light) while offering a less sticky and greasy application process compared to formulations without this ingredient. Tinomax CC (100% natural origin content per ISO 16128) performs well, particularly with higher SPFs, according to BASF, and imparts no whitening effect on the skin.
Raspberry-based UV-absorbing Emollient
Integrity Ingredients’ IntegriLipid Raspberry Oil (INCI: Rubus idaeus (raspberry) seed oil) is reportedly an excellent emollient with UV absorption properties, ideal for sensitive skin. The oil, which contains large amounts of gamma-tocopherol, has strong free-radical-scavenging properties. In formulations, it nourishes, softens, condition, and lubricates while it protects the skin’s lipid barrier to help retain moisture. The oil’s anti-inflammatory activity is reportedly greater than that of other naturals including virgin avocado oil and grapeseed oil
Tools for Clean & Sustainable Innovation
Nature-inspired technical ingredients are allowing brands to deliver a high level of functionality and claims while adhering to clean and sustainable beauty requirements.designprojects at Adobe Stock
Across categories, beauty brands are adopting ingredients that have safer or less problematic qualities that could turn away consumers or violate retailer ingredient standards.
Marine-derived Hydration
Ocean-/marine-derived beauty ingredient innovation is on the rise, primarily materials drawn from algae. Now comes news that Sacramento-based Macro Oceans has unveiled a new Hydrating Marine Polysaccharide, derived from Alaska seaweed (Saccharina latissima), which reportedly provides clinically proven hydration for skin and hair care products, per third-party trials.
The biotechnology startup produces the cosmetic bioactive compound by using green chemistry to gently isolate the complex, naturally hydrating polysaccharides found in the source seaweed.
The waste product from this process is then used to produce food and plant-based bioplastic packaging, according to Macro Oceans. Furthermore, farmed seaweed is reportedly a regenerative, carbon-negative crop, ensuring a low carbon footprint for the final cosmetic material.
Macro Oceans' investors include Refactor Capital, Lowercarbon Capital and McKinley Capital.
“Cosmetic customers want natural products that actually work and supply chains they can be proud of,” said CEO Matthew Perkins. “Today, with this product, cosmetic brands no longer have to choose. Not only does our product work, but it’s also 100% made in the U.S. and really good for the environment.”
Moving Beyond Talc
No matter how talc lawsuits in the personal care industry are ultimately decided, consumers are turning against the common material in beauty products. As recently reported, Spate recently found that talc-free queries dominate clean makeup searches (up 8.6%, year-over-year). At recent trade shows, a number of ingredient suppliers presented talc alternatives, including demo offerings from Micro Powders. During the California SCC’s Suppliers’ Day event, the company presented concepts such as PCX-4263 (INCI: cellulose acetate; 53 mm/270 mesh) and PCX-4268 (INCI: cellulose acetate; 44 mm/325 mesh). Also on display was PCX-3024 (31 mm). As of press time it was not known whether all variants would be released commercially.
TikTok’s Favorite Traditional Ingredients
What’s old is new. During the California SCC’s Suppliers’ Day event, Extracts-Unlimited highlighted two long-standing natural ingredients that were recently rediscovered by younger consumers on social media.
First up is black cumin seed oil, which the supplier offers in both organic and conventional versions. Known as Nigella sativa, the oil has long been used in many cultures for health and beauty care. Black cumin seed oil’s main benefits are derived from its anti-inflammatory sesquiterpene, thymoquinone (TMQ). In fact, the seed’s parent plant is reportedly the plant with the highest TMQ levels.
TikTok users have also boosted the resurgence of organic castor oil, which has long been used in health and beauty aids. Available in organic and conventional versions from Extracts-Unlimited, castor oil can be applied to skin and hair, which benefit from the ingredient’s high ricinoleic acid levels. Furthermore, the oil acts as an occlusive moisturizer that prevents water loss from skin.
Multifunctional Clays
Amcol Health & Beauty Solutions’ (HBS) Polargel NF (INCI: bentonite) is a white microfine powder that can be used as a suspending agent, viscosifier, binder and emulsion stabilizer in acne treatments, anti-dandruff and treatment shampoos, eye cosmetics, liquid makeup, creams, and lotions.
The company’s Polargel CA, meanwhile, comprises calcium montmorillonite clay supplied as a mircofine powder. The material can be used in clay masks and other high clay solid formulations. This product is produced under cGMP manufacturing conditions. The Polargel CA variant, meanwhile, can be used as a suspending agent, viscosifier, binder and emulsion stabilizer for acne treatments, antiperspirants, deodorants, creams and lotions.
Amcol HBS’ Magnabrite F magnesium aluminum silicate comprises a blend of white smectite clays supplied as a free-flowing powder. The material can be used as an emulsion stabilizer, suspending agent and viscosity modifier for tablets, pressed powders, ointments and pastes.
The Magnabrite range also includes the stabilizing emulsifying and suspending HV variant, ideal for acne treatments, antiperspirants, deodorants, and creams and lotions; the stabilizing and suspension-supporting K variant, ideal for creams and lotions; the stabilizing and suspension-supporting S variant for acne treatments, anti-dandruff and treatment shampoos, burn/bite creams, eye cosmetics, and sunscreens; and the binding and emulsifying Ultra variant, ideal for cosmetics and personal care products.
Amcol HBS’ Hectabrite C (INCI: hectorite), meanwhile, reportedly produces high viscosities and high gel strengths at low solids levels for personal care formulations.
Detoxing the Hair & Scalp
Chemyunion’s Polluout Detox draws on the synergy of a polydentated polymeric chelating agent, sodium polyitaconate, which is derived from alpha hydroxy acid, sodium citrate and a biosurfactant extracted from the fruit of Sapindus mukorossi. The technology reportedly removes harmful particles/pollutants from the hair and scalp, including calcium, magnesium and copper. The result is improved shine, combability, effectiveness of treatments and revitalization of the hair fiber, as well as defense of the skin’s DNA, per the company.
Tests reportedly showed that the ingredient technology imparted efficient removal of pollutants of up to 18.2% from hair fibers, as well as an almost 2x increase in strength of hair fibers exposed to Cu+2 ions associated with UVA/B radiation. Furthermore, Polluout Detox reportedly protects the skin DNA against exposure to Cu+2 ions and soothes the scalp by decreasing IL-6 synthesis by up to 17%.
Biofermented Skin Care
During the October 2023 California SCC Suppliers’ Day event, Extracts-Unlimited highlighted its new bio-fermented liquid plant extracts, which are produced with organic sustainable plant sources—sea algae; organic leaves, stems and roots; organic berries and fruits; and organic plant barks or fruit kernels or seeds—and bio-fermented with kombucha and/or Lactobacillus ferment starters. The extracts can be extended with vegetable RSPO glycerin, glycols or grain alcohol and can be applied to skin, hair and scalp care at levels of 1-10%.
Bio-fermented extracts purportedly feature higher concentrations of beneficial plant phytochemicals than conventional extracts, as well as post-biotic content for skin-friendly effects. These ingredients also inhibit naturally occurring skin-unfriendly enzymes to impart skin benefit.
Renewable Transformational Agent
Softisan MagicPowder S (INCI: tricaprylin (and) acacia Senegal gum) from IOI Oleochemical and distributed in some regions by TCR Industries is a vegan cold-processable ingredient that facilitates instant powder-to-emulsion/water-to-cream formulations with a tightening soft after-feel. In formulations, it can reduce the appearance of wrinkle depth and provide a soft touch film to emulsions. It also lends mildness to powder cleansers and a vanishing exfoliation effect.
Chassis for Waterless Formulations
Micro Powders’ NatureGel MC 750 (INCI: Cocos nucifera (coconut) oil, Brassica campestris (rapeseed) seed oil, microcrystalline cellulose, polyhydroxystearic acid, cetearyl olivate, sorbitan olivate, tocopheryl acetate) is a natural anhydrous gel that provides rich emolliency on the skin and can provide formulators with a ready-to-go chassis for making an effective waterless formulation. The gel is appropriate for body butters, sugar scrubs and for body care treatment products.
Conscious-compliant Dispersing Agent
Zetemol ColourHero (INCI: octyldodecyl PCA, myristyl lactate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate) from Zschimmer & Schwarz and distributed in some regions by TCR Industries is an Ulta Conscious Beauty-compliant dispersing agent that is reportedly highly effective with inorganic metal oxides such as iron and zinc oxides and titanium dioxide. The technology also supports the stability of dispersions, avoiding pigment agglomeration over time.
Biobased Liquid Alkyl Dimethicone
Siltech’s Silwax Sustain 5116 (INCI: cetyl dimethicone), a liquid alkyl dimethicone with improved sustainability that provides spreadability and emollience in personal care. Unlike conventional cetyl dimethicones, the alkyl component in Silwax Sustain 5116 is derived from biobased plant sources, rather than petroleum feedstocks.
Upcycled Surfactant
Kaffe Bueno’s Kleanstant is a preservative-free bio-based anionic surfactant featuring a fatty acid composition and other natural constituents derived from upcycled lipids found in coffee by-products. The resulting technology features cleansing, emulsifying, foaming and antioxidative properties, as well as a moisturizing effect. The surfactant, which is Natrue approved and Ecocert Greenlife, is recommended for use in soaps, shampoos and body washes at levels of 5-40%, depending on the application.
1,4-Dioxane-free Biobased Surfactant
BioSS RL from Advanced BioCatalytics and distributed in some regions by TCR Industries is a biobased surfactant fermented from recycled organic materials, rather than from virgin palm kernel oil. The technology is free of 1,4-dioxane and produced with the company’s GlucoSpike biosurfactant synergist, which is EPA Safer Choice and CleanGredients listed. The synergist reportedly boosts biosurfactant performance and reduces its overall carbon footprint, per the company.
Biodegradable Skin Conditioning
Ashland’s biodegradable Softhance MR (INCI: maleated soybean oil glyceryl/octyldodecanol esters (and) glycerin) conditioning agent deposits on the skin, allowing it to retain moisture after a cleansers (body washes, shower gels, hand soaps, facial cleansers, and rinse-off scrubs and masks) have been rinsed off. The technology allows brands and formulators to avoid the stripping, drying effect found with many conventional cleansers. The user is left with a perceivable skin softness, per Ashland. The technology, which comprises more than 86% nature-derived content, is compatible with anionic and non-ionic surfactants and can be applied in clear or opaque formulations. It also reportedly improves foam quality.
Biodegradable Microsphere Powder
Granpowder BBP-700 (INCI: Saccharomyces ferment (and) lauroyl lysine) from Grant Industries, Inc. is a natural and biodegradable powder with a particle size average of 2-10 micrometers, which improves the sensory qualities of skin and body care, color cosmetics, and sun care (in which it removes the greasy feel of organic UV filters) at levels of 1-5%. It can also be used in anti-aging formulations to provide a soft-focus effect. The powder, which is COSMOS-approved and ECHA-compliant, comprises a fused fermentation and amino acid composite.
Upcycled Exfoliation
Kaffe Bueno’s exfoliating Kaffefibre is derived from upcycled spent coffee grounds that serve as a viable alternative to plastic microbeads, per the producer. The source material is milled to a particle size of <150 μm for gentle and scratch-free exfoliation, according to the company. Kaffefibre, which could potentially reduce the appearance of cellulite, can be applied to face, lip and body scrubs, body washes, face cleansers, bar soaps and more.
Micro Powders takes a different approach to upcycled exfoliation with Celscrub 20 (INCI: microcrystalline cellulose), featuring 20 mesh scrub particles that break down over 30 seconds of agitation, effectively “disappearing” into non-visible microcellulosic particles. The non-microplastic technology adds a “wow” factor to product formats such as body washes, liquid hand soaps, facial cleansers, shampoos and scalp treatments, and some color cosmetics, including lip scrubs and primers.
Natural Elastomers
Grant Industries’ Gransense TC-11X (INCI: triheptanoin (and) coco caprylate/caprate (and) polyurethane-100) and Gransense TC-8X (INCI: coco caprylate/caprate (and) triheptanoin (and) C9-12 alkane (and) polyurethane-100) are naturally derived and COSMOS-approved biodegradable elastomer dispersions in plant-origin emollients. The technologies impart enhanced compatibility with polar materials such as natural oils and organic sunscreens, according to the supplier. They also feature a more moisturizing feel compared to conventional alternatives, per Grant Industries, and provide a luminous appearance on the skin.
Sulfate-free Thickener
Applechem’s Stellathix is a sulfate-free, non-ionic thickener designed for gentle systems to help stabilize premium formulations, including hair health products with clinical-grade treatment claims. The biodegradable, polymeric technology allows for brands to tap a sulfate-free thickener at a mass market price. Stellathix reportedly supports a stable chassis for actives.
PEG-free Natural Emulsifier
Grant’s Industries’ Gransurf PG-14 (INCI: polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate (and) polyglyceryl-10 dioleate) is a PEG-free natural water-in-oil polyglycerol emulsifier with a hydrophile lipophile balance (HLB) of 9.0-9.5, thereby providing a light feel on skin. The technology can be used at levels of 4-10% in formats such as serums, creams, sunscreens and foundations.
Omega-rich Cranberry Seed Oil
Integrity Ingredients’ IntegriLIPID Cranberry Seed Oil (INCI: Vaccinium macrocarpon (cranberry) seed oil) is rich in omega 3, 6 and 9 fatty acids, as well as anti-inflammatory tocopherols (vitamin E). In formulations, the oil moisturizes and aids the absorption and utilization of essential fatty acids. The fast-absorbing material can be used in moisturizing lip balms, skin balms, creams, lotions, face and eye creams, and more to address dry skin and itchy, scaly and irritated skin conditions such as eczema and psoriasis.
Sustainable Hair Color
Croda’s EBC Crodafos MBAL range comprises biobased phosphate esters to support sustainable claims for permanent and demi-permanent hair color systems. Per the company, when an oxidative hair colorant containing Crodafos phosphate esters is mixed with a developer, the dye’s intermediate complex is structurally protected and can only be broken by shear stress during hair color application. Therefore, the dye intermediate penetrates the hair cortex with a smaller molecular weight and can begin oxidation coupling for a higher dye uptake and faster hair coloring rate.
Biodegradable Oral Care
Ashland’s Gantrez Soja (INCI: sodium maleated soybean oil) biodegradable delivery system for toothpaste and mouthwash is designed to retain hydrophobic and poorly water-soluble actives on oral surfaces for long-lasting benefits. The ingredient is vegan-suitable, non-GMO and not a microplastic.
Climate-friendly Preservative
Lanxess’ Neolone BioG Preservative (INCI: ethyl lauroyl arginate HCL) is a COSMOS-approved and climate-friendly preservative ingredient that is also compliant with the company’s Scopeblue sustainability standard. The material reportedly offers broad-spectrum activity against Gram-negative and Gram-positive bacteria, yeasts, and molds. The preservative is stable in a pH range of 3 to 6. It is readily biodegradable and, when used at the recommended use levels, non-sensitizing and non-irritating.
Footnotes
ahttps://gcimagazine.texterity.com/gcimagazine/library/page/september_2023/14/
bwww.nature.com/articles/s41580-020-00313-x
cThe 12 hallmarks of aging are: genomic instability, telomere attrition, epigenetic alterations, loss of proteostasis, disabled macroautophagy, deregulated nutrient-sensing, mitochondrial dysfunction, cellular senescence, stem cell exhaustion, altered intercellular communication, chronic inflammation and dysbiosis.
dhttps://pubs.acs.org/doi/10.1021/acsnano.7b03150
eINCI: Theobroma grandiflorum seed butter (and) Pyrus malus (apple) seed oil (and) Vaccinium macrocarpon (cranberry) seed oil (and) Rubus rruticosus (blackberry) seed oil (and) Punica granatum seed oil (and) Hippophae rhamnoides fruit oil (and) Prunus avium (sweet cherry) seed oil (and) Actinidia chinensis (kiwi) seed oil
fwww.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6126071/
gINCI: Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter (and) Hippophae rhamnoides seed oil (and) Terminalia ferdinandiana seed oil (and) Caryodendron orinocense seed oil (and) Calophyllum tacamahaca seed oil (and) Orbignya oleifera seed oil (and) Cocos nucifera (coconut) oil (and) Theobroma grandiflorum seed butter (and) Astrocaryum murumuru seed butter (and) Gardenia taitensis flower extract (and) tocopherol (and) Hippophae rhamnoides fruit oil
