Live From New York

MAC Pro Store Opens in NYC

Located in New York City’s Flatiron District, the new New York MAC Pro store features a revamped design of the MAC Pro concept. This makeup haven was created by James Gager, senior vice president/creative director, Tim Tareco, vice president of visual merchandising and Sheila Choi, vice president of store design, all of whom work for MAC Worldwide.

Created with the professional makeup artist in mind, the 6,000-square foot space features a juxtaposition of styles and textures, combining unfinished wood, glass, steel and stone slabs with signature MAC acrylic to convey the brand’s unique look and feel. Gager, Tareco and Choi collaborated on all aspects of the store—its overall neutral palette to its colorful wall of glass jars filled with vivid paints and pigments that communicate the M.A.C.’s passion for color cosmetics. Tareco said, “From a design standpoint, this space is about creating a laboratory to test products and the MAC emphasis on education is inherent.”

In addition to a photo studio, a research library and mixing stations, the store will be a hub to support and engage professional makeup artists and their endeavors. Top tier makeup artists will conduct master classes on body painting and special effects. Pro product labs, workshops, portfolio review opportunities and networking activities will also be offered. According to Gager, Tareco and Choi, the new Pro store will foster a sense of community among MAC Pro members and potential members, as well as invite professionals and consumers to shop, learn and utilize the environment as an educational resource.

The Art of Packaging Award 2008 Garners $250,000 for the Marc Rosen Scholarship for Graduate Package Design

The Pratt Institute—Luxe Pack “The Art of Packaging Award” Gala honored Dior Beauty and was hosted by Lee Goldberg of WABC-TV News. Held at New York’s University Club, the function garnered $250,000 for the “Marc Rosen Scholarship for Graduate Package Design” and attracted over 250 of the beauty industry’s top professionals. This scholarship fund has generated a total of $1,500,000.

Pete Born, Women’s Wear Daily and Fairchild Publications executive editor, introduced Pamela Baxter, president and CEO, LVMH Perfumes & Cosmetics N.A. and president, Christian Dior Inc., who graciously accepted the award.

Pratt Institute’s president, Thomas Schutte, and Luxe Pack’s executive director, Nathalie Grosdidier, presented Ms. Baxter with the award and also praised the scholarship recipients, who were introduced by designer Marc Rosen.

This year’s recipients include Patricia Abouchahine, Jaehee Jung, Yue Jin Kim and Miguel Eunson. The scholarships are awarded to promising students enrolled in the world’s only graduate program in cosmetic package design, taught by Rosen. Bottles and packaging designed by the winning students were on display at the gala and at Luxe Pack New York.

Among the attendees were previous recipients from Clinique, Estée Lauder, Avon, Bath & Body Works and P&G Beauty, including its president Marc Pritchard. Givaudan and Symrise and Utleys were sponsors of the event.

Alcan Packaging Beauty, Bormioli Rocco, Condé Nast Publications, Drom Fragrances, The Fragrance Foundation, Heinz Glass, International Flavors and Fragrances, Nordstrom and SGD also held tables. Donations came from Bormioli Luigi, Toppan and Elle magazine.

Previous recipients of the “The Art of Packaging Award” include Clinique, P&G Beauty, Bath & Body Works, Estée Lauder, Coty Inc., Ralph Lauren Fragrances, Calvin Klein, Lancôme and Avon. Dior Beauty was selected as the 2008 honoree in recognition of its longstanding commitment to package design.

Pratt founded the “Marc Rosen Scholarship for Graduate Design” in 1989. Many of the program’s graduates have secured illustrious careers in bottle and packaging design within the fragrance and cosmetics industry.

ICMAD in NYC

Independent Cosmetic Manufacturers and Distributors (ICMAD), in cooperation with The U.S. Food and Drug Administration, Office of Cosmetics & Colors and the Center for Drug Evaluation and Research, presented their 28th Cosmetic Regulatory Workshop on April 24, 2008 at The New York Athletic Club. Executive director, Penni Jones, welcomed attendees and stated the objectives of the workshop and the mission of ICMAD: to represent, educate and foster the growth of cosmetic industry entrepreneurial initiatives.

The presentation addressed topics including legal issues in the manufacturing and distributing of cosmetics, Proposition 65 in California, as it applies to foods and cosmetics, international regulations, product liability insurance, FDA realities, over-the-counter (OTC) drugs and cosmetic drugs and the Voluntary Cosmetic Registration Program. Jack Bierig, ICMAD Legal Counsel, partner, Sidley Austin LLP, Chicago, gave a presentation on the distinctions between drugs and cosmetics, emphasizing, “The claims you make for your products will determine whether or not your products will need to be regulated by the FDA.”

Judith Praitis, partner, Sidley Austin LLP, Los Angeles, presented an analysis of the recent developments in Proposition 65 cases and the Safe Cosmetics Program. She noted, “The duty is on you as a manufacturer to conduct an analysis of your products.” She added, that while the burden of proof issue is very important, “California legislation has not yet allocated a budget for this, and although the list of chemicals is out there, there is no mechanism yet for filing your reports.”

Carl Geffken, ICMAD Technical, Regulatory and Legislative committee chair, discussed international regulations, harmonization opportunities, including seeking a common definition of nanotechnology, and semantic harmonization of terms such as water, aqua and eau. Additionally, she discussed risk assessment and alternatives to animal testing. Stanley Katz, ICMAD chair and president of the ICMAD Purchasing Group and Ken Hegel of Cosmetic Insurance Services discussed the importance of product liability insurance and ICMAD’s program that helps companies protect their businesses at home and oversees. The afternoon sessions were devoted to the FDA’s Cosmetic Regulatory Program, over-the-counter drugs and cosmetic drugs and claims substantiation. Additional information is available at: www.icmad.org and www.fda.gov.

CEW 2008 Beauty Awards

On May 2, 2008, at New York City’s Waldorf-Astoria, Cosmetic Executive Women awarded their annual CEW Beauty Insider’s Choice Awards to the standouts in mass, prestige and independent beauty categories. Based on the votes of CEW members and the board of directors, nearly 600 products were judged, with 135 finalists chosen across 27 categories. Carlotta Jacobson, CEW president, spoke during the luncheon, acknowledging the innovation and creativity of this year’s entries.

Nancy Berger Cardone, publisher of Allure magazine and a sponsor of the event for the past six years, commented on the significance of the beauty awards, noting that a recent report in The New York Times Style section acknowledged the importance of lipstick purchases during a slowdown in consumer confidence, as a significant barometer of our economy today. She also mentioned the ability beauty has to provide a spiritual lift, albeit at a reasonable price to economy-conscious consumers. “Beauty may not be recession-proof,” said Cardone, “but it is recession-resistant.” “There are 32,510 beauty blogs today, which speaks to the importance of the “beauty conversation” she concluded.

Winners of this year’s awards, hosted by Mario Cantone, star in the recently launched film, Sex and the City, were as follows:

• Body Treatment, Mass: Olay Thermal Pedicure
• Body Treatment, Prestige: Origins, Dr. Andrew Weil for Origins The Way of the Bath Matcha Tea Body Scrub
• Facial Skincare, Acne Treatment: Bare Escentuals, Rare Minerals Blemish Therapy
• Facial Skincare, Anti-Aging, Mass: Olay Regenerist Micro-Sculpting Cream
• Facial Skincare, Anti-Aging, Prestige: Shiseido Cosmetics (America) Ltd., Bio-Performance Intensive Skin Corrective Program
• Facial Skincare, Cleanser and Scrub, Mass: Dove SkinVitalizer
• Facial Skincare, Cleanser and Scrub, Prestige: Philosophy the Microdelivery Micro-Massage Exfoliating Wash
• Facial Skincare, Eye Treatment, Mass: Olay Regenerist Eye Derma-Pod Anti-Aging Triple Response System
• Facial Skincare, Eye Treatment, Prestige: Estée Lauder Future Perfect Anti-Wrinkle Radiance Eye Cream
• Facial Skincare, Moisturizer, Mass: L’Oreal Paris Revitalift UV Daily Moisturizing Cream with Mexoryl SX
• Facial Skincare, Moisturizer, Prestige: Estée Lauder Hydra Bright Skin-Tone Perfecting Moisturizer
• Makeup, Eye Product, Mass: Cover Girl Lash Blast Mascara
• Makeup, Eye Product, Prestige: Dior DiorShow Blackout Mascara
• Makeup Face Product, Mass: Almay, Smart Shade® Blush and Bronzer
• Makeup, Face Product, Prestige: Estée Lauder Resilience Lift Extreme Ultra Firming Makeup SPF 15
• Makeup Lip Product, Mass: L’Oreal Paris Infallible Never Fail Lipcolour
• Makeup Lip Product, Prestige: YSL Beaute Lip Twins
• Men’s Grooming: Clinique Skin Supplies for Men M Cover
• Hair Care and Coloring Product, Mass: Garnier Fructis Style Sleek & Shine Anti-Humidity Hairspray
• Hair Care and Coloring Product, Prestige: Frederic Fekkai, Coiff Controle, Ironless Straightening Balm
• Sun Product, Mass: Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry-Touch Sunblock SPF 70
• Sun Product, Prestige: Estée Lauder Multi-Protection Sun Towelettes for Body SPF 15
• Men’s Scent: Bond No. 9 New York, Andy Warhol Silver Factory, Fragrance Supplier: Givaudan
• Women’s Scent, Prestige: Marc Jacobs Fragrances, Daisy Marc Jacobs, Fragrance Supplier: Firmenich
• Scented Bath and Body Mass: Johnson’s Softoil™ Melt Away Stress Massaging Moisturizer
• Scented Bath and Body, Prestige: Tom Ford Beauty, Black Orchid Finishing Oil Spray
• The 2008 CEW Indie Beauty Awards went to bettybeauty, inc., and Clark’s Botanicals, in a tie.

CEW has approximately 4,000 members to whom it offers industry contacts, mentors, philanthropic initiatives and informational presentations related to the beauty industry. This year, CEW partnered with the NPD Group to introduce new product categories and entry requirements that reflect current consumer shopping trends.

Sponsors of the 2008 awards included Allure magazine, Givaudan, Crest Whitestrips, CVS/pharmacy, The Royal Promotion Group, Acuvue, WWD BeautyBiz, Restylane®, KraftWorks, Veet, HBA Global Expo, Arcade Marketing, MaCher, Vidicom, Beilis Development, Rpr Marketing Communications, The Neostrata Company, Suite K, RAW Media Network and Digital Plus.

Aveeno and Skin Cancer Foundation Tour

On May 2, Perry Robins of The Skin Cancer Foundation, presided over the official launch of The Skin Cancer Foundation’s Road to Healthy Skin Tour, presented by Aveeno® and Rite Aid, which took place in New York City’s Union Square.

The tour will offer free full body skin cancer screenings, conducted by local board-certified dermatologists, in a private room inside a 38-foot customized RV. It will visit more than 50 cities across the country through October 2008.

Present at the New York City launch were Deborah S. Sarnoff, Cosmetique, Dermatology, Laser & Plastic Surgery, LLP, Francesca Fusco, Wexler Dermatology, Neil S. Sadick, Sadick Dermatology, as well as Frank DiCopoulous, of Guiding Light and other Guiding Light actors. At each stop on the tour, consumers will be invited to visit the RV and receive a quick, easy and potentially life-saving full body skin cancer screening. Informational material will be distributed so people can learn how to perform monthly skin checks at-home as well as how to protect themselves daily.

According to The Skin Cancer Foundation, skin cancer is among the fastest growing cancers in the United States, as 40% of people admit they never use sunscreen and only 11% use an SPF 15 or higher on a daily basis. “Aveeno® is committed to educating the public about the dangers of the sun and the importance of sun safety in helping to prevent skin cancer,” said Alissa Hsu Lynch, group product director of Aveeno. “By sponsoring this tour, we are confident we can help make a difference in growing awareness and prevention, so people can enjoy a healthy outdoor lifestyle.”

Additional information about the tour schedule and skin cancer prevention is available at: www.skincancer.org or www.aveeno.com.

Patyka Launch in Soho

On May 7, 2008, Patyka, a French brand that produces organic cosmetics and perfumes for the luxury market, opened its Soho showroom at The Ochre Store in New York City. The company presented its newest entry in a line of botanical products, Biokaliftin, which is certified organic by Ecocert, an independent board accredited by the European Union and the U.S. Ministry of Agriculture.

Among the latest in the collection is Crème Visage Reparatrice, formulated with 77% certified organic plant extracts, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Hyaluronic Acid, lemon balm, floral water and rose essential oil. The product is designed to improve overall hydration, firmness and resilience of the skin.

Patyka, who plans to open its own location in Soho, showcased the complete Biokaliftin line, which includes Masque Gommant Lumiere, Demaquillant Intense, for makeup removal, Contour Des Yeux, formulated with 90% certified organic plant extracts and Elixir Nuit Reparateur, with 99.5% certified organic plant extracts, including rosehip seed oil and jatamansi extract.

Patyka offers a complete collection for the face, including organic serums and reparative creams. They have a body care line that includes a geranium and jojoba organic body cream and a rosewood and ylang ylang body oil. The brand offers a line of children’s and men’s lines, both of which contain no silicones, petroleum, sulfates or parabens. Perfumes formulated with essential oils and plant absolutes are also available. CEW Welcomes Carol Hamilton

On May 8, 2008 Cosmetic Executive Women hosted A Conversation with Carol Hamilton, president, L’Oréal, Paris, as part of its Women in Beauty Series, held at New York City’s Harmonie Club. Sabine Feldman, vice president and publisher of Shape magazine and sponsor of the event began the evening by noting the importance of beauty in our daily lives. Citing a recent Shape survey, she mentioned 45% of women indicated they prefer being beautiful to being wealthy, a telling statistic for the crowd of beauty professionals in the audience.

Hamilton is totally passionate about the beauty business, remarking that in order to experience what it felt like to be a brunette, blonde and redhead, she experimented with each shade to help her understand “the power of hair color.” Growing up in California during the 60s, she knew every shade of lipstick at the corner drugstore and could identify them by name at a glance. After graduating from Vassar, Hamilton worked at Grey Advertising, where she was first introduced to beauty client accounts. She worked for 12 creatives at Grey and developed her passion for advertising. When she joined L’Oréal 24 years ago, she had come to view beauty in a broad social context. “It’s about how women see themselves in the landscape, in the culture. It is so multi-faceted,” she said.

She noted that passion, confidence and energy are essential attributes for a career in beauty, though one really has to love the business. “Everyone should believe in themselves. You need to decide you want to master every aspect of the business, especially the financial side. You have to learn to love the P&L’s as much as the lipstick shades,” said Hamilton. She noted the three new L’Oréal products that currently “wow” her, citing Infallible Lipstick, SkinGenesis Multilayer Cell Strengthening Serum and Bare Naturale, with its built-in brush.

“At the end of the day, great ideas come from everywhere. I’ve found over the years that your first impression isn’t always right. It doesn’t matter where it was invented, it has to resonate wherever we are,” added Hamilton. “We’re kind of ubiquitous,” she added, “We want to increase the frequency of use and penetration of L’Oréal products around the world.” Hamilton said the company launches something new every six months, citing the importance of getting it right “the first time out of the gate.”

Beauty through the Looking Glass

On May 9, 2008, The Fashion Group International presented a panel discussion on “the state of beauty today,” at New York City’s Hilton Hotel. Sponsored by Elle magazine, Estée Lauder Companies and Givaudan, the presentation highlighted the ways in which consumers are forcing the industry to rethink the rules. Caroline Pieper-Vogt, senior vice president of marketing for Clarins, welcomed the audience, saying, “Beauty today is not what you thought. The game is different and the rules are not the same.”

She introduced moderator Karen Young, CEO, The Young Group, who led the discussion. “The beauty industry is re-inventing itself and today’s beauty shopper is moving fast. In fact, niche or alternative brands are now 30% of the beauty industry,” said Young. Panelists represented a variety of perspectives within the industry, including Linda Carroll, color insight manager, Ampacet; Sherry Lay, vice president of products for The Body Shop; Jane Hertzmark Hudis, president and founder, BeautyBank; Michael Henry, vice president of beauty for the Home Shopping Network (HSN) and Debbie Murtha, senior vice president of cosmetics for Macy’s Merchandising Group.

Carroll, with expertise in color mapping as it relates to color in consumer packaging via socio-cultural preferences, cited trends including uber communication—a micro-trend dealing with gesture technology via breath and thoughts, as well as virtuality—a new acceptance of artificial intelligence to enhance communication. She mentioned new shades of green and bright yellow that have gained popularity in Europe, and the anodized bronzes and antique effects, forecasted for global use. It’s clear that color selection in packaging and product creation is a key factor in the presentation of beauty products and beyond.

Sheri Lay credited Anita Roddick, founder of The Body Shop, making reference to the emerging environmental movement in Europe from the company’s inception. “From one small store in the UK, to stores in 55 countries, The Body Shop has maintained its social values through tremendous growth,” she said. “For The Body Shop, beauty is about high performance makeup and a way of life. Standing up for human rights issues and giving a lift up, rather than a hand out, is an important part of The Body Shop philosophy.”

Lay noted that Roddick created an innovative model for fair trade—which she finds to be an empowering principle. “We want our customers to experience the benefit of our products and the benefits to our planet,” she said. “Creating social change through beauty is a win-win for everyone,” Lay concluded.

Hudis, founder of the BeautyBank, said it was the brainchild of William Lauder. “We have to think like the new consumer to meet their needs,” said Hudis. She acknowledged the open environment of BeautyBank, saying, “We’re built on different rules, with a different flavor organization and a 100% team environment driven by creativity, with speed to market as a significant part of the model.” While the company values the 50-year tradition of the Lauder organization, of which it is a part, Hudis said, “We are re-inventing new ways to go after new brands that are relevant to consumers all around the world, so we can be part of the future of what beauty will be about.”

Henry noted, “It’s clear that technology continues to drive our company, with social networking continuing to drive our business. There has been an evolution in technology and consumers are using various shopping engines to make the most efficient use of their time.” He noted that shopping channels aren’t just a commerce platform, but also a marketing platform and have “the ability to make a product come alive.”

Murtha said emerging entrepreneurial businesses present challenges for larger retailers, citing some of the new initiatives Macy’s is adopting to keep up with market trends. Their Lifestyle stores, the first of which opened in Tampa, Florida, focus on their key businesses, including cosmetics. The stores feature an interactive environment and provide an incubation area for products. *“The demographics are constantly changing and we continue to be flexible in the environment we create for the customers on a localized basis,” said Murtha.